Established Routes

There are more than 500 established routes in El Potrero Chico ranging from a single pitch to over 40 pitches, easy 5.7’s to hard 5.14’s. While most of the routes are bolted, they shouldn’t be considered mere sport climbing but rather long bolted routes on big serious rock. In spite of the great amount of work done by the first ascentionists to clean the routes we need to keep in mind that this is a big, living, breathing mountain being constantly pulled down by the forces of gravity.

Climbing History

Local Mexican climbers were active here in the 1960’s and early 70’s but their climbing was pretty much restricted to the long ridges and a few of the cracks. It wasn’t until the advent of bolted climbing and a chance visit by American climbers from Texas in 1988 that the modern era began. We owe a debt of thanks to these early developers like Alex Catlin, Jeff Jackson, Kevin Gallagher, Tony Faucett and Rick Watson. The torch was then taken up by Kurt Smith, Alvino Pons, Rodney Blakemore, Dane Bass, Matt Grecco and yours truly.

Unclimbed Rock

Welcome to El Potrero Chico, world capital of big wall sport climbing.Located in the Eastern Sierra Madre, in the state of Nuevo Leon, Mexico, El Potrero Chico is a natural basin six miles long by three miles wide composed of 2000 foot walls of steep grey limestone and creamy dolomite.The locals are friendly, hte food and beer are cheap, camping is inexpensive or free, access to the big routes are unbelievably short and easy, and best of all, you will not be hampered by overbearing rules and regulations.Welcome to Tami and Magic Ed's world, welcome to ur rock climber's paradise.